Have coffee flavour profiles become too “funky”?

Experimental processing methods have changed the trajectory of specialty coffee forever. It’s not uncommon to see “anaerobic fermentation” or “carbonic maceration” printed on packaging in high-end coffee shops, with a small but growing number of consumers interested in trying these coffees.

So with these advanced processing techniques becoming more popular, flavour notes have started to become more and more unconventional. And perhaps most notable is the amount of “funky” tasting notes that coffee professionals and enthusiasts now refer to – think wine-like, fermented, “fruit bomb”, or even vegetal, for example.

Simply put, these flavour notes are worlds apart from what more traditional coffee drinkers expect. So it begs the question: are we going too far with “funky” sensory profiles? Or do they have their own place within specialty coffee?

To find out, I spoke to Pil Hoon Seu, CEO of Coffee Libre, and Ildi Revi, Chief Coffee Officer at Purity Coffee.

Defining funky coffee flavour profiles

In specialty coffee, we often use the term “funky” to describe intensely fruity and wine-like (or “boozy”) flavours. These are typically the result of experimental processing methods which include intentional and controlled fermentation. Some examples are:

Aerobic fermentation – when sugars break down in the presence of oxygen to develop sweeter flavours

Anaerobic fermentation – producers create conditions to remove oxygen, so sugars break down more slowly

Carbonic maceration – similar to anaerobic fermentation, but producers flush coffee with carbon dioxide to also slow the process down

Lactic fermentation – Lactic Acid Bacteria (LAB) is added to coffee, which converts simple carbohydrates into lactic acid. This can create a creamier mouthfeel and more tart flavours (similar to yoghurt)

Coffees processed in these ways usually have more complex, interesting, and layered flavour profiles. However, when using the term “funky” to describe flavour notes, there is still some confusion about what it really means.

Pil Hoon Seu is the CEO of Coffee Libre – a specialty coffee roaster in South Korea. He agrees, saying there is no consistent and agreed upon definition.

“How we categorise ‘funky’ flavours and the criteria for judging them are what people disagree on the most,” he tells me.

Negative connotations associated with fermented flavours

Although controlled fermentation in coffee processing has become much more popular in recent years, the flavours they create haven’t always been favoured by industry professionals and consumers. In fact, traditionally speaking, fermented flavours have even been considered as defective.

Ildi Revi is the Chief Coffee Officer at Purity Coffee – a functional specialty coffee brand in the US.

“Does ‘funky’ mean there are defective flavours, or does it mean something more interesting and ‘wild’?” she asks. To specify, Ildi suggests using the Coffee Taster’s Flavor wheel.

“Start in the middle of the wheel,” she says. “Is the flavour that you think is ‘funky’ actually sour, vegetative, chemical, or musty? A more traditional term is an ‘off-flavour’.”

Are flavour notes becoming too funky?

Pil acknowledges the ongoing trend of leveraging fermentation in advanced processing methods.

“Funkier flavours have been on the rise in recent years in an attempt to create more unique sensory profiles,” he says. “This has become even more prominent with the growing popularity of anaerobic fermentation and infused coffees.”

Some in the industry, however, are championing a return to more “conventional” flavour profiles that better highlight terroir and a coffee’s inherent characteristics. But does this necessarily mean that flavour notes are becoming too funky?

“Some of the funkier coffees can taste like kimchi, kombucha, vinegar, or pickles,” Pil says. “I love kimchi, but I don’t like my coffee to taste like kimchi.”

Ultimately, Pil adds that it comes down to the flavours that each individual likes.

“What we define as funky is more deeply tied to personal and cultural preferences,” he suggests. “However, to make things less confusing, I use the term ‘winey’ for the positive funk and ‘over-fermented’ for the negative funk.”

Do we rely on processing too much to achieve funky flavours?

New developments in controlled fermentation have enabled producers to unlock entirely new flavour profiles – and potentially add more value to their coffee.

But Ildi argues that this can sometimes detract from a coffee’s inherent qualities, and that funkier flavours are primarily (or even solely) the result of using certain processing methods.

“If the only way to get a certain flavour is by using a particular processing technique then we become too dependent on it,” she explains.

Pil agrees, saying: “Attempts to enhance and intensify specific flavour notes through processing alone reduces the diversity of flavours associated with terroir, origin, and variety.

“There’s a lot of ‘negative’ funky coffee on the market,” he adds. “However, we are just beginning to learn more about fermentation in coffee processing. Processing methods will evolve based on market feedback, and the dominant funky flavours will gradually become more positive and diverse.”

What do consumers really want?

Intentionally fermented coffees have undeniably become more popular in specialty coffee. At the same time, however, we have to acknowledge that the market for these coffees remains very small.

“The quest for the next great thing in specialty coffee represents a really small sector of the industry,” Ildi says. “Innovation can be exciting and is essential for any industry to evolve, but the majority of the world’s coffee drinkers are looking for an enjoyable, clean cup of coffee that fits into their routine.

“Most people want traditional flavours like nuts, chocolate, and a little fruitiness,” she adds.

But Pil points out that advanced processing methods can serve as unique selling points for roasters.

“Funky coffee leaves a strong impression on anyone, not just specialty coffee consumers who are more curious about trying new flavours,” he tells me.

Prioritising producers’ needs

Ultimately, consumer preferences will dictate the future of coffee flavour profiles. As experimental processing methods continue to evolve, demand for these coffees is likely to increase.

At the same time, Ildi highlights another important consideration.

“We need to be mindful of what we ask of producers,” she says. “If we ask them to go out of their way to carry out processing methods that are labour intensive or require more technical equipment or biological inputs, then we should approach the process with proper business agreements that share the risk involved.”

For example, a roaster may want to experiment with a particular strain of bacteria or yeast, but the producer will need to carry out the majority of the work.

“If the results aren’t what was expected, then the roaster might refuse to buy the coffee,” Ildi adds – which leaves producers left to absorb financial risk they may not be able to take on.

Although offering funky flavours might be interesting and trendy, Ildi advises producers and roasters to think strategically before investing in these coffees.

“Think about your business model – what is your mission and vision? Is it to find the most unique coffees in the world or is it to have a range of coffees with different characteristics?,” she concludes. “You can dive down a rabbit hole of flavour exceptionality, but it can be too easy to lose sight of the nuts and bolts of your business.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article explaining why coffee tasting notes need to be both exciting and accurate.

Photo credits: Coffee Libre, Alice Boswell Brown, Ildi Revi

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